Friday, September 18
out of the meseta...into Leon
hola! We arrived in Leon yesterday afternoon after spending a few more days walking the desolate plains of the Meseta. The towns throughout the Meseta were few and far between and semiabandoned and desolate like the meseta itself. our last albergue before we got here was an old 16th C parish house in the town of Bercianos de Real Camino...the albergue was bascially all there was in the town except one little bar and tiny grocery. our albergue was two story with wood beams (would never meet the fire code in the USA)...one toilet for men and one for women. it was a challenge in the morning. our meal was communal...prepared by the pilgrims from the monetary donations left by pilgrims from the night before. The meal was pretty good...salad, lentil soup with sausage from the region, bread and fruit. we brought our own 3 dollar bottle of wine to contribute to our table. there were 47 pilgrims and 3 hospitaleras at two long tables. at the end of the meal, several Italians started singing and then another woman stood up and we were treated to an italian aria. Gene wanted to stand up and sing a song but she didn´t know enough words to any song. it was a lively group. after dinner there was a small chapel in the house where about 20 plus pilgrims went...we discussed the pilgrimage, said a prayer and sang...everyone introduced themselves in their own language. other experiences on the meseta....we left one morning at 6:30 am by the light of the moon and stars and our little flashlights lighting the way. the sun came up about 7:30...beautiful. one morning we expected rain so we put on our gear and it never rained...a gorgeous morning. after lunch on a park bench, we started out again and it started to hail...gear back on for a short period of rain...gear off, sun came out and it was windy. we had a little of everything that day. As we entered Leon, we started to see green again, mountains in the background and crops, and people. Leon is a really beautiful town...the Cathedral is known for its stained glass...they say, the prettiest in Europe. Tonight we hope to go to a free concert at the cathedral with music by Vivaldi. We are in a cute hotel in the old quarter...great place to walk around. we have run into several people we started with that we haven´t seen for 2 weeks...lots are staying here for a break. We have added lots of nationalities to our encounters...Austria, Switzerland, Hungary, Holland...and more. We head for the hills again tomorrow with lots of tough walking ahead but we look forward to seeing what many considered to be some of the most beautiful countryside. up bright and early tomorrow...we figure we have at least 14 more days of hard walking to get to Santiago. Packs are still too heavy and our feet are still sore but...maybe getting better??? thanks for the support from all...love, susu and gene
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congratulations on making it through the meseta! i had a dream last night that i was walking with you guys but had lost my credencial- i woke up in a panic and realized it was just a dream! soon you will be in astorga, and then rabanal del camino- one of my favorite stops. if you can, stay in the albergue run by the london confraternity of st. james. it's at the top of the hill and it's a beast to walk up after a day of walking, but it's worth it! so nice, and you can go across the road to the church for evening prayer with the monks. the next day is the iron cross- such a special, special place. always brings me to tears to think about how many people have placed their prayers at the foot of it over the years. not much time left, but the green hills and pastures of galicia are some of the most beautiful vistas of the trip. enjoy, peregrinas! every step is one that you may never get again.
ReplyDeleteBuenos días mis peregrinos encantadores! read your email. Keep looking at the post office for surprises and in Santiago too. We are trying but you know those spainish postal workers!! Your trek through the meseta sounded very interesting. Maybe you could send a picture as email attachment:plug your camera into the computer via USB port, then open a mail to compose and hit ATTACH in the lower left corner and navigate to your camera and see if any pictures come up, then select on or more (Hold control button down) and hit open. They should appear as JPEG file numbers under your composed letter. Easy, uh?? Anyway you are closing in on the goal and sound great. Nothing to report here. Closing in 2 weeks! Can't wait to see you. Te quiero mucho.Hasta que nos encontremos otra vez.
ReplyDeleteRoberto
Buenos noches senorita,
ReplyDeleteHopa you had a gooda day. This would be the Leon layover I guess. Tarheels beat ECU. Check our email for the latest in travel plans.
Rest well and have a great day on the Camino tomorrow. Love you lots, B.
Hey Mom and Gene
ReplyDeleteHope these past two days have been good. Lots of mountains again? Feet good? Went to the Wake game yesterday with the boys and it was alot of fun. Had front row seats in the end zone. Good pics too - will send in an email. Drew got up close and personal with the Deacon! Saw Julie Griffin too and she said hello. Hope you are having good weather. Can't wait to hear from you again! Happy trails! We love you
C
Ah the simplicity of your lives right now is so wonderful, walk, eat, sleep, walk, eat, sleep........ Every week in class someone asks how you are all doing and we wonder where you are etc. and how the hips are holding up. They must be doing well because you only mention the blisters on your feet. Keep on putting one foot in front of the other. Your entire trip so far sounds like such a spiritual and meditative experience. Go Yogis Go!!
ReplyDeleteHey Gene,
ReplyDeleteWe have been living your journey through your words. Must a beautiful place, and the serenity amidst the struggle to keep going. Hang in there. Safe travel. Vaya con Dios
Love
Bill & Joyce